#51 - Nepal: Mazamas Seniors and Friends Khumbu Trek (2010) Part I


Mazamas is a nonprofit mountaineering education organization founded in 1894 on the summit of Mt. Hood located in Oregon.  It is the second oldest mountaineering organization in the United States.  I have been an active or passive member of the Mazamas for over 30 years and have led local hike and snowshoe trips as well as several international outings. 

In 2009, I proposed to the Outing Committee for a Seniors & Friends Khumbu Trek which might appeal to the Mazamas Classic or "older" members.  My proposal was accepted and I asked Dr. Peter Reagan, a retired doctor who is an active outdoors person, to serve as my assistant leader.  He accepted.  We departed 23 October with a trekking group of 16 Mazamas and friends for a 20 day Nepal trek in the Everest Khumbu region.  This was my first return trek in the Everest area in many years and the development throughout was overwhelming to my eyes.

But, I won't be telling my story.  The next two posts offer a very unique opportunity for you to read different reports from our trek:  Assistant Leader, Dr. Peter Reagan and Trek Sirdar, Phurba Sherpa.  Photographs were taken by both Drs. Peter and Bonnie Reagan.  Today's post comes from the words of Phurba Sherpa as transcribed by his daughter Maya.


It was almost a decade ago, I remember, that I went for trekking with some wonderful peoples from Portland, Oregon to the Khumbu.  The hills of green and grey rock, misty at noon, hazy at dawn, molten at sunset, and the stunning view of mountains from there, have always fascinated and attracted me with its utter charm.  As far as I remember it was chilling winter October going on at that point of time,  Indeed, thee was fog and slight snowfall in that area for quite a few days, so we were more than thrilled to go there.

I can't remember the dates, but I think the trek was around 18 days.  By the day 12, we were already at the Everest Base Camp and then up to Kala Patthar (5,550 meters).  With full energy and preparation, we altogether half of the 16 members went there.  We were spellbound reaching there early at dawn when the sun was just peeking out from between the clouds to twinkle the white snow cover, the hiking up to Kala Patthar was so cozy that I couldn't quite understand when the night fell and the light came.  The members looked really overjoy and east to see the tranquil scene, they spent sometime over there by taking beautiful pictures of Mountains, Lophophorus Birds, Thar (wild goats), and Yak, etc.

As a Guiding experience:  The members were really generous, humble and understanding.  I didn't feel any sort of challenging situation or discomfort.  It was really a pleasure and memorable for me to trek with them.

Unfortunately, two members caught unconscious breath holding at high altitude on the way to Dingboche, the next day David had to immediately call for the helicopter for the rescue, so we had to send them down from Pongboche to Lukla (2,840 meters) and back to Kathmandu. 

All the Nepalese staff from that trek are still continuing the trekking occupation for their livelihood.  But sadly, among all of them, Chang Phurba is not longer with us.  He died two years ago at the age of 38 due to alcohol addition.

Within 10 years many things have changed on treks.  The number of hotels/lodges has increased 3 times more than before.  There are very rare percentage of camping trek, since most of the foreigners prefer to do tea-house treks.  Before we could see lots of snow covering the scene of the mountains above 5000 meters high, but now due to climate change, we can't get to see the snow covered mountains even above the 6000 meters high and the glaciers are also moving slowly and taking lots of open spaces.  Also, the percentage of Thar and birds are decreasing more than before.