#39 - East Africa (~1977)



It would be getting dark soon. Another vehicle hadn't passed in the last hour.  Dickson, bare-chested,  stood on the hood waving his white t-shirt.  We were on the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater, in the middle of the dirt track, out of diesel.  When the sun passed over the Crater rim, I was prepared for a cold night in the Land Rover.  Fortunately, it was a closed vehicle with doors and windows that rolled up.  No, we didn't have radio communication with the nearest lodge or other safari vehicles. It was going to be Dickson and I curled up in the second and third row seats listening for the cackle of spotted hyena, the grunt of African bush elephant or the soft growl of the lions.

As the skies darkened, we saw headlights descending the road into the Crater.  Soon, we heard the hum of a vehicle coming toward us on the track.  Someone at the lodge, set on the rim above, had seen the waving white shirt and sent a driver to investigate.  Whereas Dickson had not filled our Land Rover, nor brought an extra can, the lodge driver arrived prepared to assist.  After pouring diesel into our tank and bleeding the fuel lines, we followed our rescuer back to the lodge.  A warm shower followed by a warm dinner and comfortable bed awaited.

I brought my binoculars to breakfast.  My lodge in Serengeti National Park was situated on a rocky knoll overlooking a savanna which had an open plain in the middle surrounded by dense vegetation on each side.  A small herd of grazing Gravy's zebra walked slowly through the plain about 200 yards below my window.  I scanned them with my binoculars, then spotted a brownish color moving in the dense vegetation beyond. Then two, then three. There was movement in the nearer vegetation, also.  From above, I began to make out a pride of six or seven female lions on each side of the open plain, cautiously stalking the zebra searching for a straggler. They slowly raise their heads among the vegetation to signal each other.  When they had moved midway past the herd, the vegetation exploded with brown bodies rushing the slowest zebra. Several lions pounced; it was over in seconds.

The lodge, located near the Machame gate on the flanks of Mt. Kilimanjaro, provided my base to find local resources for future hikes up the mountain.  Contacts were made, objectives never met.

The bongos came out at night. The solitary antelope has a chestnut coat with vertical whitish-yellow stripes running down their sides and spiraled lyre-shaped horns and live in the dense forest. They are herbivorous browsers that feed on leaves, bushes, grasses, roots, flowers and fruits and will visit natural mineral licks during the night for the salt.  Treetops Lodge, built on stilts and located in Aberdare National Park, is strategically sited in front of a natural watering hole and salt lick.   I woke to the sound of buzzing, the signal that an animal could be seen outside from the viewing deck.  The bongo stood at the water's edge in the floodlights shadow.

The Fairview Hotel is located on a hill above Nairobi in landscaped garden. It had the ambience of an English Manor house. I left after breakfast to explore the town.  While walking the crowded streets lined with shops, I heard yelling and saw a young man running down the road with a bag over his shoulder chased by some men.  Several men stepped out of store fronts, grabbed the young man, threw him on the ground and began severely beating him.  The moral to that story, don't steal from shops in an area where owners police their shops.


Lions Hanging Out

Some Safaris Don't Run Smoothly


#38 - Bhutan: Gangkhar Puensuum Trek (October 2011)


I have wondered if persons who join a hiking trip or trek think about being out on the trail somewhere remote and the guide or leader has a problem and cannot continue with the group.  This situation was never on my mind when I was younger, but an aging body leads one to not only consider the abilities and skills of the individual group members but also oneself.

It is my privilege to introduce today's guest blogger, Bruce Bagley, with whom I have enjoyed sharing treks in Nepal, Bhutan and Patagonia as well as day hikes in Bhutan and Iceland and a cultural/wildlife safari in India.  After my short introduction to Gangkhar Puensum, Bruce will tell you about Folkway's Gangkhar Puensuum Trek in 2011.

Since 1994, climbing mountains higher than 18,000 feet is prohibited out of respect for the local spiritual beliefs.  Since 2003, climbing mountains in Bhutan has become forbidden.

Gangkhar Puensuum (White Peak of the Three Spiritual Brothers) at 24,836 feet lies on the border with Tibet and is the highest mountain in Bhutan and the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.


In October, I accompanied David Christopher and four other travelers on a trek to Gangkhar Puensuum in the Asian kingdom of Bhutan.  It was memorable, demanding and exhausting but also one of the best adventures I've ever had.

I left Seattle on October 17 and flew to Bangkok, the usual transfer point to Druk Air for the flight to Paro, Bhutan.  I spent a day in Bangkok, resting from the flight and seeing the sights.



Flying into Paro is, uh, exciting, as the plane winds in and out of the mountain valleys, sometimes even below the surrounding ridges.  I found it's best to not look out the windows.

Once in Bhutan, the group spent several days visiting schools, fortresses and an old monastery called Tiger's Nest.  This was the only time in four trips to Bhutan that I've managed to see the inside.



After a drive over several high passes to Trongsa we continued on to Dhuur village and met our pack horses for the start of the trek.   The horses would carry tents and camping gear while we carried our day packs.



At the end of the day, however, disaster struck at camp.  David's legs were hit with severe muscle cramps and Jill's digestive system rebelled completely from the change of diet.  The next morning, David still couldn't walk and Jill was utterly incapacitated.  The two of them evacuated back out on horseback, leaving four of us to go on.

The next days were a succession of up and down hikes along increasingly broad valleys as we gradually gained altitude.  Mostly I remember walking slowly in mixed rain and snow with occasional sun breaks.  The mud was deep in some places.  Looking back on my pictures, they give a false impression of sunny days since I only took the camera out when the precipitation stopped.



When we camped, it would snow overnight and I was so grateful I didn't have to be the one to strike the frozen tents in the morning.  It was nice, too, to be greeted in the morning by the cook with coffee and hot water while still in my sleeping bag.  Fortunately, my tent didn't leak, although that was not the case for others.











One day, while we were steeply climbing over a pass, a large herd of yaks came thundering down in front of us.  We quickly got out of their way but it was a sign that time was short as the herders were bringing their animals to lower pastures for winter.



Finally, after a long morning's hike, we reached the top of a lateral moraine for lunch and could look down on the glaciers and the braided ice-melt streams coming out of the Gangkhar Puensuum massif.  It was very cloudy with what looked like a storm coming down from the heights.  I remember that as we sat there, Darrell reached into her pack and brought out a large Cadbury's Chocolate bar which she gave to our guides.  She had brought it all the way from her home in Canada and I hope that they appreciated the long journey that it had had.











The next day it was time to start the trip back.  The snow at night was getting heavier and it was necessary to get out of the mountains before winter set in.  Also, the mud was even deeper than on the way in.  The rain was coming down hard when we finally got back to Paro and the flight home.  Out guide gave us the news that David and Jill had gotten back safely to the United States.



Darrell wrote a series of haiku inspired by her experiences on the trip and combined them with photos.




 

#37 - Pakistan: K2 Expedition Fund-Raising Trek (1986)


Ken Wanderer returns to the blog for a description of the American K2 Expedition Fund-Raising Trek that he led.

The 1986 American K2 Expedition was sponsored by the Mazamas, the American Alpine Club and others.  The accompanying Folkways trek walked in with the climbers, as we did in 1985 with the Gasherbrum climb, stayed at the K2 base camp for a couple days and returned on the same trail.

The route to Concordia was the same as with the previous year's trek, but we started about one month earlier and the difference was inescapable.  Temperatures were much cooler and it snowed several days.  The towers and mountains were even more stunning and the glacier itself was not covered with rock but glistened with snow and ice.

There were two emergency room doctors on the trek who set up a clinic for villagers at each of our camps below the glacier.  News of the clinics spread quickly so they were very well attended.  With trekkers helping, the docs did tooth extractions, abscess treatment and minor amputations (parts of fingers and toes with unattended wounds).  The Baltis, who farm and herd in the area, eat a lot of wheat and barley ground by local granite, which leaves a lot of stone in the flower so that the average 30 year old has worn through the enamel leading to tooth decay.

Pakistan is one of the few countries that require that those who hire porters equip them for the conditions they will be working in, provide them with a reasonable quantity and quality of food and carry accident and life insurance for them.  So, with new sunglasses, boots, socks, jackets, bags of flour, five gallon tins of cooking oil, each carrying a government prescribed maximum weight, the porters headed up the Braldu River.

The ER docs were tracking the trekker's calorie consumption and weight as we hiked from 10,000 to 16,000 feet.  We each consumed about 8,000 calories per day and the average person lost 5 pounds over the twelve days it took to get to the base camp.

The going was slower with the snow and ice, but once we arrived at Concordia and turned north on to the Godwin-Austen Glacier we had K2 in sight, and what a sight.  During the day and a half march to base camp we could see most of the great pyramid of K2 and most of the climbing route that the American team would use.

There were a number of high profile climbers preparing to attempt various routes on the mountain that year.  One of the American climbers, Dr. Steve Boyer, took it upon himself to take the trekkers around to meet all of these mountaineering luminaries.

1986 was a tragic year on K2.  Despite the talent and experience of the American and other teams, there were 13 deaths.  About three weeks after the trekkers left base camp, John Smolich and Alan Pennington were carrying supplies to a camp on top of a long steep ridge when the unpredictable happened and they were killed in an ice and snow avalanche. Understandably, the American team withdrew from the mountain and headed home. 






Approach to K2 Base Camp


K2 Base Camp


Trango Towers

#36 - Pakistan: Gasherbrum Expedition Fund-Raising Trek (1985)


Today's guest Blogger is Ken Wanderer, who led our Gasherbrum Expedition Fund-Raising Trek (you were introduced to him on the Circle South Sister Backpack).  Ken describes the trek as follows: 

In the fall of 1984, I was offered the chance to co-lead the joint Folkways-Mazama Gasherbrum Expedition Trek in the Karakoram sub-range of the Himalayas.  I jumped at the opportunity.  The trek, planned for June and July of 1985, would accompany the Mazama climbing team to the base camp of Gasherbrum I.

Nine trekkers flew into Islamabad, Pakistan, traveled overland north by bus to the Braldu River and spent the next thirty days following the river to the Baltoro Glacier, then along the huge glacier up to Concordia and on to the Gasherbrum base camp.  We returned  via the same route.

We began the walk by crossing the enraged and milky Braldu River on a flying fox, a low-sided simple box suspended from a cable.  Two trekkers per load were pulled 150 yards across the water, praying they wouldn't fall out of the flimsy box 50 feet down into the torrent.

For several days we walked along the river through villages, past barley fields and apricot orchards, meeting farmers and kids along the way.  Then onto the Baltoro Glacier, the third longest sub-arctic glacier in the world, where we went to sleep at night listening to the groaning and creaking of the ice.  We were in sight of the vertical and massive Trango and Muztagh Towers.   In another five days we were at Concordia, the confluence of the Baltoro and the Godwin-Austen Glaciers, deep in the monochromatic heart of the Karakoram.  We were surrounded by Mitre, Broad, Marble and several of the Gasherbrum peaks with K2 majestically framed several miles away.

In another day and half, we found ourselves at the Gasherbrum base camp at 17,500 feet elevation.  While there, we volunteered to carry supplies through the Gasherbrum Glacier ice-fall to Camp I, a rare opportunity for trekkers.  After celebrating July Fourth in that rarefied atmosphere, we retraced our route back to color and civilization from the most awe-inspiring living museum of rock and ice.

View to Concordia (1985)


Looking Around Concordia (1985)

 
Children at Askole (1985)