Sunday 5/14 In the morning we visited the ancient city of Delphi, famous for the oracles, of course. This, presumably, was the home of Apollo, and famous for the Temple of Apollo. Delphi started as a religious site, with pilgrims coming to consult the oracle. Late in its history, it became more political and secular. The ruins rise to quite a height and we walked to the topmost level to the site of the Stadium. Below the Temple to Apollo, we spent some time in the area devoted to the Goddess Athena Pronaia.
From Delphi we started back to Athens, stopping for lunch at a countryside restaurant for a dinner of spit-roasted lamb, Greek salad, fried potatoes and beer, joining the local villagers at tables set out under the trees.
Stopped briefly at our hotel in Athens, then down to Pireaus where boarded the ferry for Crete. We had comfortable, second-class berths and slept very well. Trip took 12 hours, from 7pm to 7am when we docked at Iraklion on Crete.
Monday 5/15 After landing, we trooped over to bus depot: took 3 hr. bus trip to our destination, Hania, to the west but still on the north side of the island. Much produce grown on the island, grape arbors for the local wine and the leaves for the "dolmades". Hania is a seaport town, full of soldiers on R&R and sailors and busy people. Too tired to do more than have lunch and take a long walk investigating the seafront.
Tuesday 5/16 Spent day resting and investigating the city. Aside from the shopping areas, life here seems to center around the quay and here we spent time drinking beer and eating in the waterfront restaurants. [NOTE: This was free day for the group. I (The Global Rambler) took a local bus to hike the Samaria Gorge beginning in Omalos and the trailhead at Xyloskalo set in the midst of the Lefka Ori (white mountains). The trail begins with a very steep descent along a narrow trail down to Agia Roumeli where the local Anendyk ferry goes to Chora Sfakion and a local bus back to Hania Hiking distance is 16 kilometers (about 10 miles).
Wednesday 5/17 Boarded the bus this morning back to Iraklion. After lunch and acquainting ourselves to the surroundings, we made a pilgrimage to the grave of Kazantzakis, so stark and simple in its setting along on a hill. Ate our dinner that night, and several other meals, at the Minos restaurant, with tables set right in the "gutter" and cars and vans whizzing by just about grazing our chairs. Much hilarity at our table, as usual.
Our hotel, which is just about the bottom of the bin so far as lodging is concerned, is situated in the heart of the market area with its colorful open vegetable and fruit and meat stalls. We were really with "the people."
We filled this afternoon with a visit to the Herakleion Museum and a good briefing on the eras and the Minoan culture from George.
Thursday 5/18 By city bus this morning to Knossos to see the ruins of the ancient Minoan civilization. This culture was very different from any other on the mainland altho simultaneous in existence. It started as a matriarchal society but gradually became patriarchal following the need for warriors, and so forth. The civilization is divided into 3 periods: the Neolithic Pre-Palace period (2700-1900 B.C.), the Old Palace period (1900-1700 B.C.) and the New Palace period (1700-1450 B.C.). The ruins of the palaces, in certain places, have been beautifully reconstructed and are very different from other sites previously seen, particularly the red color of the pillars of the palace buildings, and the beautiful wall paintings found here. Knossos was the religious and economic center of the entire region; was never a fortified city; when it was a functioning city, its harbor was Amnissos. Here, too, was the labyrinth of the Minotaur, which we followed.
Friday 5/19 While half the group took a day trip to the ancient ruins of Phaestos, some of us stayed in Iraklion. David and I took a city bus to the beach at Amnissas. Lots of people sunning and swimming. That night we departed by ferry for Athens (Piraeus harbor).
Saturday 5/20 Arrived early morning in Piraeus harbor after a beautifully smooth sail from Iraklion. Immediately boarded another ferry for the journey to the Island of Paros. Our new ferry, smaller than the other, has a small but elaborate chapel on deck where the faithful orthodox say a prayer and light a candle, which should insure a safe journey.
Our ferry stopped at the island of Syros, the town picturesquely rising from the water up the hillside like so many of the harbor cities of these Cycladic islands. A load of school children, their band instruments and chaperones invaded the ferry with much noise and jollity. Arrived six hours from departure in the harbor city of Parikia on Paros.
Sunday 5/21-24 (Excerpts from these days) We intended to sleep in this morning but who can resist a "band" passing under our window at 7am. on its way to a church celebration? Some saint's day, no doubt. Following the music, church bells peeled for Sunday mass and from our balcony we can hear the cantor in the nearby monastery.
...Spent the day lolling around Parikia. It is warm and beautiful, the flowers lovely; all day sailing boats, fishing boats, ply the harbor and ferries stop on their way to and from other islands. This is true, lazy island living; sipping cold drinks at outdoor tables, meeting and talking with people from other countries, joining them in refreshments and strolls.
Thursday 5/25 We were awakened this morning by the clop-clop of donkey hoofs beneath the window, probably a farmer bringing in some produce donkey back. Today we take reluctant leave of Paros - so many places to investigate for which there was no more time, so many sights unseen on this little island - the enchanted island life ends with a ferry trip back to Athens. David escorted us to [farewell] dinner at a roof-topped restaurant from where we could see lights on the Acropolis.
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Friday 5/19 While half the group took a day trip to the ancient ruins of Phaestos, some of us stayed in Iraklion. David and I took a city bus to the beach at Amnissas. Lots of people sunning and swimming. That night we departed by ferry for Athens (Piraeus harbor).
Saturday 5/20 Arrived early morning in Piraeus harbor after a beautifully smooth sail from Iraklion. Immediately boarded another ferry for the journey to the Island of Paros. Our new ferry, smaller than the other, has a small but elaborate chapel on deck where the faithful orthodox say a prayer and light a candle, which should insure a safe journey.
Our ferry stopped at the island of Syros, the town picturesquely rising from the water up the hillside like so many of the harbor cities of these Cycladic islands. A load of school children, their band instruments and chaperones invaded the ferry with much noise and jollity. Arrived six hours from departure in the harbor city of Parikia on Paros.
Sunday 5/21-24 (Excerpts from these days) We intended to sleep in this morning but who can resist a "band" passing under our window at 7am. on its way to a church celebration? Some saint's day, no doubt. Following the music, church bells peeled for Sunday mass and from our balcony we can hear the cantor in the nearby monastery.
...Spent the day lolling around Parikia. It is warm and beautiful, the flowers lovely; all day sailing boats, fishing boats, ply the harbor and ferries stop on their way to and from other islands. This is true, lazy island living; sipping cold drinks at outdoor tables, meeting and talking with people from other countries, joining them in refreshments and strolls.
Thursday 5/25 We were awakened this morning by the clop-clop of donkey hoofs beneath the window, probably a farmer bringing in some produce donkey back. Today we take reluctant leave of Paros - so many places to investigate for which there was no more time, so many sights unseen on this little island - the enchanted island life ends with a ferry trip back to Athens. David escorted us to [farewell] dinner at a roof-topped restaurant from where we could see lights on the Acropolis.
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| Knossos - Mosaic Wall (1978) |
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| Crete - Traveling with the Locals...and others (1978) |
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| Crete - Hiking the Samaria Gorge (1978) |
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To roam the ancient sites of Greece, to savor life in Greece today,
arouses many philosophical thoughts: I shall sum it up in one word,
"Perpetuity" ....
M.O (Mildred)
