This is a unique opportunity to have you read excerpts from Mildred O's Portrait of Greece travel journal. I am sure that she would have been pleased to share these recollections with you.
Monday 5/1 Met at airport by David and George C, the Ohio history and archeology professor, of Greek descent, just completing his Fulbright year in Greece working on his doctorate in some exotic area of ancient Greek archeology. Took city bus from airport to city center. Staying in very modest old hotel called, grandiosely, The Acropolis House.
Tuesday 5/2 Our hotel is in the area ofd Athens called the Plaka: very old, narrow, crooked streets, narrow sidewalks, myriads of small shops, tavernas. From the third and floor stairwell windows of our hotel, we look out upon the Acropolis and the Parthenon. To the Acropolis this morning, crowded with tourists altho the heart of the tourist season will not begin for another month. Wandered about the Parthenon, the Propylaea, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtehion, the Temple of Hephaistos (Theseion), the Stoa in the ancient Agora, walked down the Panathenaic Way and viewed, from above in the Agora, the Herodes Atticus.
Lunch under a canopy in outdoor cafe, then to p.o. and bank (for $50, I received 1,854 drachmas). To the Syntagma (Square of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier) and Parliament Building for the changing of the guard, then to the National Gardens.
Wednesday 5/3 Spent morning visiting the National Archeological Museum; reached by bus. It is utterly astounding, considering the plunder of vases and statues displayed in museums all over the world, now much authentic material there is collected here: gallery after mile of vases, amphora, kraters, statues, frescoes, miniatures, weapons, and so on.
After an excellent lunch at one of George's favorite restaurants (Lima beans in tomato sauce, spinach and rice dish, artichoke heart stewed with potatoes) we proceeded on a walk that took us past the Palace, through the National Park, and to the Panathaneic Stadium. This is the third stadium built in Athens, all marble of course, seating 50,000 people and where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896. The Palace grounds are beautifully kept, with the Greek guards protecting it, and the royalty in exile being used for some government business.
Thursday 5/4 Today we left Athens in our Volkswagen bus, seating just available for the 9 of us, headed for Korinthos. Before arriving there, we stopped at Isthmia ruins where a small museum of the area is being built. In ancient times, this was the scene of the first Panhellenic games. Ruins remain of the Stadium and the Temple of Poseidon. Everywhere here among the ruins, as we found in all areas of the mainland, meadows aglow with red poppies.
From here, we proceeded to the ruins of the ancient city of Corinth. To me, so far the most beautiful temple we have seen, is the Temple of Apollo, though only a few columns remain. Standing as it does on the height by itself beneath the shimmering blue sky, it conveys all the classical purity and essence of the spirit of ancient Greece to me. We spent a goodly time walking in the ruins of this city, George supplying us with detailed and in-depth information on the area, distinguishing between the work of the ancient Greeks and the later work of Roman conquerors. As in the other areas visited so far, Greek civilizations were conquered and destroyed by the Romans, and their civilizations overlaid.
At Corinth, we watched students and workmen from the American School of Classical Studies, working a "dig" at this location. We then proceeded to spend some time in the small but very nice museum. From Corinth, we proceeded to our next stay, Nafplion, a charming seaside resort town (on the Gulf of Argolikos), to be here for two nights.
Friday 5/5 We left early this morning for the site of the ruins of Mycenae and managed to spend all the morning almost alone before the unbelievable hordes of bus tourist arrived. The site of Mycenae, surrounded by wide vistas of green, agricultural plains and bordered by majestic mountains, is memorable and unforgettable if for no other reason. It evokes all the memories and nostalgic dreams one has built up from early years of learning about Greece.
In addition to the myriad fields of poppies in bloom, this is the season for a host of pink and yellow and other wildflowers; roses bloom in magnificence in Greece, and nowhere else have I seen such geraniums, huge bush like shrubs rather than the plants we are accustomed to.
Saturday 5/6 Today we drove from Nafplion to Sparti where we are spending the night. Arrived in time for lunch, then left for the site of the ancient ruins, within walking distance of our hotel. Sparta, of course, was a military state known for its military prowess and austerity of living; started around 14th century B.C., race of Dorians, the fierce-blooded Spartans, first entered plain of Lakonia. Spartan leadership made possible Greek victory over the Persians. Very little left of ancient city; most of the ruins belong to the Roman era. We went to the area of the Roman theatre on southwest slopes of a hill, and to the ruins of temple dedicated to Athena. This site is beautifully located between two mountain ranges. The road leading from Tripolis to Sparta was very spectacular with views of snow-capped Mt. Taigetos and other mountain ranges, with green valley of River Evrotas; myriads of olive trees and olive groves. Interesting note on ancient Sparti: it was never a fortified city, its reputation as a warrior state was its defense.
Evening: We drove west of Sparti, on the foothills of Mt. Taigetos, to the Byzantine ghost-city of citadel, walls, palaces, monasteries and churches of Mystras. In the evening light, these edifices on the face of the hill with plains of Evratos Valley below was extraordinary. Went wild with pictures.
After an excellent dinner in a basement restaurant, where as customary in Greece, we went into the kitchen and chose our dishes from the cook stove, we walked over to the town square. It was a warm and beautiful night and the square was filled with strollers parading back and forth. The square is lined with pastry and goody restaurants, and we chose one to sit at, along with the outdoor crowds. Indulged in rich pastry and Metaxa brandy.
Sunday 5/7 Today our drive took us west from Sparti to Kalamata through lovely mountainous area, then north and west to the coast, and up to Olimpia. Had delicious Sunday dinner in hotel dining room, with dessert of red-fleshed oranges, most flavorful. On to the ancient city of Olimpia. Here we viewed the remains of the original Olympic Stadium, the remains of the Temple of Zeus and the Temple to Hera, his wife. It is here that the Olympic flame is lit at the start of the Games. I was particularly interested in the workshop of the sculptor Phidias, which later became a Byzantine church. We also went to the grove dedicated to Baron Pierre de Courbetin, who was the spirit behind the revival of the modern Olympics. His heart is buried here, beneath a dedicatory pedestal, his body on the family estate in France.
We spent some time in the "new" museum here, which has many fine pieces. Olympia, the ancient city, was noted for inaugurating sports, and for bringing a period of peace lasting 700 years.
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| Athens - Plaka Folkcraft Shop (1978) |
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When you start on your journey to Ithaca,
then pray that the road is long,
full of adventure, full of knowledge.
...
Then pray that the road is long.
That the summer mornings are many,
that you will enter ports seen for the first time
with such pleasure and joy.
...
Always keep Ithaca fixed in your mind.
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for long years;
and even to anchor at the isle when you are old,
rich with all that you have gained on the way,
not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.
Ithaca has given you the beautiful voyage.
Without her you would never have taken the road.
But she has nothing more to give you.
And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not defrauded you.
With the great wisdom you have gained, with so much experience
you must surely have understood by then when Ithacas mean.
Cavafy, "Ithica" The Complete Poems of Cavafy
