I scheduled our bus to the trailhead for 0800am. At 0830, no bus, so our trekkers returned to the hotel garden for their second cup of coffee. Our Sirdar arrived in a very dated bus at 0900, loaded the duffels onto the roof rack and we settling in for the 5 hour drive to the trailhead. We drove out onto the Ring Road, then suddenly stopped. We were running out of diesel, so we crawled to the nearest petrol station for a 20 minute fill-up. Tank full, trekkers aboard, Sherpa chattering away in back, some members on the roof with the duffels, we were off in a cloud of diesel fumes for our 25 day Around Annapurna Trek.
Our bus arrived in humid Besisahar where the porters, cooks and kitchen staff were waiting. The trekkers, day packs on their backs, were impatient to move, so a few of our Sherpa led the way. Our trek had begun. That night a warm rain fell....as well as on the next day....and the next day. On day three, I became very ill and couldn't eat or stand up. One of the members was a doctor and diagnosed some type of local flu or valley fever. The Sirdar and Sherpa sought local help and brought a doctor from the village who had a different diagnosis - "By the Heart". The trekkers stayed in camp an extra day to allow for my recovery. When I wasn't able to leave camp the following day, they continued up toward Chame. The next morning, I was able to walk slowly, so the two Sherpa who stayed with us packed our tent and supplies, carried my day pack and we set off after the trekking group. (Side note - 16 years later, after multiple Himalayan treks, and two TIA's causing vision problems with loss of leg and arm control on my right side, doctors would discover that I had a small hole in my heart that required open heart surgery - "by the heart?". The doctors were surprised about my completing multiple Himalayan treks.)
The altitude, rain, trekking life, humidity and food began impacting some of the members. The CornNut trekkers, who knew each other, became a trekking unit unto themselves and didn't want much to do with the other group members.
In 1979, there were few foreigners in the Nepal countryside and we were alone with our staff and local villagers throughout most of our trek. The village of Manang, (11,500ft) was rest and acclimatization day before moving higher. After reaching Thorong Phedi (14,600ft) for the night, we rose very early the next morning for a hearty breakfast and began the approach to the highest point in our trek - Thorong La (17,770ft) with each trekker carrying water and lunch. Crossing Thorong La was the equalizer (in October 2014, over 17 trekkers were killed crossing the pass when a sudden storm swept through the Himalayas). Some of those who were big talkers became big stragglers and all felt the high altitude conditions. The group was strung out on the trail for miles and required myself and the Sherpa staff to remain alert throughout the day for anyone showing signs of altitude sickness. Then darkness came. Some of the members were not in Muktinath camp (12,475ft) by 0800pm after beginning at 0400am. The cook made several thermos of tea and a couple Sherpa and I left camp with tea, cookies and flashlights to retrace our steps back up to the pass. As we came upon one or more of our trekkers, we poured hot tea, handed out cookies, checked their physical condition and sent them on down and continued up to search for others. By 11pm, 19 hours after we had left Thorong Phedi, we were back in camp with everyone warm, fed and asleep. It was a long day.
We were running out of food. The trekking company had not provided sufficient funds for the trek operation and I had little cash. We were able to get word from the nearby military post to the trek company that we needed cash and food. After two more campsites, we were met by a couple Sherpa and porters rushing up from Pokhara with our supplies.
In 1979, there were few foreigners in the Nepal countryside and we were alone with our staff and local villagers throughout most of our trek. The village of Manang, (11,500ft) was rest and acclimatization day before moving higher. After reaching Thorong Phedi (14,600ft) for the night, we rose very early the next morning for a hearty breakfast and began the approach to the highest point in our trek - Thorong La (17,770ft) with each trekker carrying water and lunch. Crossing Thorong La was the equalizer (in October 2014, over 17 trekkers were killed crossing the pass when a sudden storm swept through the Himalayas). Some of those who were big talkers became big stragglers and all felt the high altitude conditions. The group was strung out on the trail for miles and required myself and the Sherpa staff to remain alert throughout the day for anyone showing signs of altitude sickness. Then darkness came. Some of the members were not in Muktinath camp (12,475ft) by 0800pm after beginning at 0400am. The cook made several thermos of tea and a couple Sherpa and I left camp with tea, cookies and flashlights to retrace our steps back up to the pass. As we came upon one or more of our trekkers, we poured hot tea, handed out cookies, checked their physical condition and sent them on down and continued up to search for others. By 11pm, 19 hours after we had left Thorong Phedi, we were back in camp with everyone warm, fed and asleep. It was a long day.
We were running out of food. The trekking company had not provided sufficient funds for the trek operation and I had little cash. We were able to get word from the nearby military post to the trek company that we needed cash and food. After two more campsites, we were met by a couple Sherpa and porters rushing up from Pokhara with our supplies.
Of course, the trekkers collegial attitude from the successful pass crossing was soon exhausted due to the slim rations, the altitude, personality conflicts and length of time on the trek. By this time, I was orchestrating two parallel trekking groups moving toward Pokhara and, in my thoughts, we couldn't arrive too soon.
The trekking staff did a fantastic job considering the attitudes and conditions among the trekkers. No one became very sick, except myself at the beginning, and all arrived back in Kathmandu looking forward to a hot shower, good food and a nice comfortable bed.
Since Around Annapurna in 1979, I have had the privilege to trek in areas that were magical, awe-inspiring, physically demanding, remote and stimulating. All are memorable. Frankly, it is hard for me to believe the gift that I have been given to explore the Himalayas over so many years. Not only Nepal. India, Sikkim, Pakistan, Bhutan and Tibet will be shared in coming posts.
The trekking staff did a fantastic job considering the attitudes and conditions among the trekkers. No one became very sick, except myself at the beginning, and all arrived back in Kathmandu looking forward to a hot shower, good food and a nice comfortable bed.
Since Around Annapurna in 1979, I have had the privilege to trek in areas that were magical, awe-inspiring, physically demanding, remote and stimulating. All are memorable. Frankly, it is hard for me to believe the gift that I have been given to explore the Himalayas over so many years. Not only Nepal. India, Sikkim, Pakistan, Bhutan and Tibet will be shared in coming posts.
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| Annapurna Range - Around Annapurna Trek (1979) |
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“All journeys end in the settling of
accounts: paying off porters, muleteers
or camel-drivers, and rewarding the staff, especially the unfailing khansamah
and, of course, the sirdar, the invaluable guide and caravan organizer. It is also the moment when one must seek
adequate words of gratitude and recompense for the contributions of loyal
companions, and least of all for the numerous acts of kindness and
consideration one has received on the way”
The Mandala of Sherlock Holmes, Jamyang Norbu
