#67 - Botswana: Traditional Tented Wildlife Safari (2016 & 2018)


Botswana is located in the center of Southern Africa and covering an estimated area of 581,730 square kilometers making it the size of France.  The country is bordered by Zambia and Zimbabwe to the northeast, Namibia to the north and west and South Africa to the south and southeast.  At Kazungula, four countries - Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Namibia - all meet at a single point mid-stream in the Zambezi River (the shortest border in the world).

The vast Kalahari Desert, the largest continuous stretch of sand in the world, covers 84% of Botswana, extending from the Orange River in South Africa to the equator in Gabon.  With the exceptions of the Okavango and Chobe areas in the north, the country has little permanent surface water.

Early travelers to the region referred to it as a "thirstland desert," however, this is a misnomer:  Most of the Kalahari is covered with vegetation including acacia woodland and golden grasslands.  This empty and pristine terrain is occasionally interrupted by gently descending valleys, sand dunes, large numbers of pans and, int he extreme northwest, isolated hills, such as Aha, Tsodilo, Koanaka and Geqihaba.  The clay pans fill with water during the rainy season and their hard surface layer ensures that water remains in the pans and is not immediately absorbed , creating life-giving sustenance to game and bird life.

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve, extending over 50,000 square kms, was set aside in 1961 as a haven for the Bushmen in which they might continue their traditional lifestyles of hunting and gathering from the desert.  The reserve and empty lands around it support tens of thousands of desert antelope - gemsbuck and springbuck, lions, leopard and cheetah.

Bushmen were the first known inhabitants of Botswana.  They have lived in the Kalahari for at least 80,000 years, but no one can say why they chose the Kalahari as their home.  Estimated at 120,000 members, the Bushmen are not threatened as a race, but their hunter-gatherer way of life is coming to an end due to various political and socioeconomic factors.

In the northwest is the Okavango River Delta - 15,000 square kms. covered with a glistening network of crystal clear water channels, lagoons, swamps and islands.  This unique freshwater system is the pulsing heart of Northern Botswana's wilderness, growing with the dry season and shrinking as the wet weather returns.  The largest permanent inland delta system in the world, only slightly larger than Israel, it sparkles like a previous jewel in the Kalahari Desert sand, an ecosystem of a size and intricacy rivaling any on earth.

Within Botswana's wilds live some of Africa's last great free-roaming herds of Cape Buffalo, zebra, antelope and, above all, elephants.  Botswana's elephants have been the beneficiaries of the nation's stability and the national herd provides the largest concentration of elephant in the world.

In complete contrast, the northeastern region of the Kalahari Basin contains the Makgadikgadi Pans - a huge expanse of pristine, sugary white landscape larger than Switzerland.  Once a large river-fed lake, the Pans now lie saline and empty.  They are littered with stone tools and artifacts dating between 2,000 - 500,000 years old.  During the wet season, up to 75,000 zebra and wildebeest migrate into the area with regular sightings of lion, cheetah and other predators following in their wake.  Thousands of flamingo appear to feed as long as the water lasts.  It is the permanent haven for desert species such as the meerkat and the elusive brown hyena.


Botswana
A Traditional Tented Wildlife Safari 



  

Folkways' Image Library

YouTube

https://youtu.be/laVLuQuQGvw

 
If you are interested in a Botswana Safari

 The.Global.Rambler@gmail.com

Folkways.Travel@gmail.com

#66 - Bhutan: Chorten Kora - Trashiyangtse (2015)



Chorten Kora - Trashiyangtse, Bhutan (2015)

Long ago, there was a fierce demon that terrorized the Trashi Yangtsi valley.  Many locals and travelers were killed and , no matter what magic or prayers the local lamas and people did, they could not appease or destroy the demon.  One day, they consulted an astrologer who predicted the birth of a female whose sacrifice would subdue the demon.  But at the appointed time and place, the only child that could be found was the daughter of the king of Arunachal Pradesh of India.  The locals implored the king for his daughter, but he refused and for years the demon continued to take his toll.  When it came time for the daughter to marry, the king held a competition to find the most able suitor, which resulted in a horse race that a Bhutanese man won.  He had made a supreme effort to win the race and asked for the princess to appease the demon, but again the king refused.  The suitor explained his story to the princess who agreed to sacrifice herself.  To prevent further suffering, she begged her father to let her go.  Finally, the King relented and she went into a spiritual retreat while the locals of Trashiyangtse built a giant stupa.  Artisans came from Nepal with a model of Boudhanath and prepared a special room inside the dome.  When the stupa was ready, the princess was bricked into the dome with her possessions, and so the demon was subdued and the people of Trashiyangtse have lived peacefully ever since.

#65 - Tibet Pilgrimage: The Solace of Sacred Terrain (2000)


Isolated by formidable geographic barriers and guarded by its government, Tibet used to be a truly forbidden place. By avoiding influence from the Western world, this country developed its unique culture and religion independently. Hidden behind the Himalayas and rising nearly five kilometers above sea level, Tibet is a land unlike any other, a magical realm of vast open spaces, clear light and pure color, dominated by an intensely blue sky. Since the 8th century, Tibet has been devoutly Buddhist, merging influences from Indian Buddhism, Tantra, and the indigenous religion called "Bon" into a complex synthesis of beliefs. Tibetan Buddhism has inspired centuries of splendid art and architecture and has served as the cornerstone of Tibet's unique and highly developed culture. Deeply religious, Tibetans are open, spontaneous, admirably good-humored and quick to joke.

The Tibetan Autonomous Region is nestled between India and the Chinese provinces of Xinjiang and Qinghai. In China, 3.9 million Tibetans live as citizens of People's Republic of China, though only 2 million people live in Tibet - at least 150,000 of which are Han Chinese. In India and Nepal, 120,000 Tibetan refugees are currently experiencing a renaissance of Tibetan culture. Tibet is a land of overpowering scenery. Sparsely populated, this high plateau offers unforgettable vistas with a barren, surrealistic quality. The landscape has a sense of high mountain spirit that has earned Tibet the distinctive title "Roof of the World." The traditional cultures of this region have a rich heritage and are struggling to survive in a complex world of global politics and national priorities.
Lhasa, the capital of the sparsely populated autonomous region of Tibet, has a population of roughly 150,000. The city is situated on the river Lhasa, a tributary of the Yarlung Zangbo which transverses Tibet from west to east before swinging south and flowing into the Gulf of Bengal as the Brahmaputra. 


The Tibetan King Songtsan Gampo, who was responsible for unifying the kingdom, ordered a palace to be built on Marpori, the Red Mountain, in the 7th century. He called it the "Palace of Immortality", now known as Potala Palace. The Tibetans were living as they had for centuries, until Tibet was taken over by the Chinese in 1949. The initial welcome of change by the Tibetans was very short lived. The confiscation of monastic lands and the collectivization of traditional ethnic boundaries soon proved that the Chinese concept of governing was very different from the Tibetan concept. The Tibetans are unhappy with the Chinese rule, but the Chinese government chooses to ignore them, believing the transition to socialism has been smooth and successful. 


The following presentation will allow you to enjoy some sights and sounds from our Tibet Pilgrimage.  It is best viewed if you do not show in full screen, since the camera had a low pixel count.
I believe that I have advanced my presentation sophistication and would appreciate your thoughts and comments  -  The.Global.Rambler@gmail.com. 


Tibet Pilgrimage
The Solace of Sacred Terrain 

 

Folkways' Image Library
Music: Bruno Coulais, Himalaya, L'enfance D'un Chef


You Tube
 

#64 - Botswana: Spotting a Leopard on Safari (2016)




Botswana - Leopard at rest (2016)
Folkways Image Library

#63 - Tibet: In the Footsteps of Alexandra David Neel (1996)


"Lha gyalo! De thamched pham!" Conquering a treacherous 19,000-foot Himalayan pass in the dead of night, winter 1923, Alexandra David-Neel paused in her final surge toward the forbidden city of Lhasa to echo the ancient Tibetan cry of victory - "the gods have won! The demons are vanquished."  But she did so silently.  It is the Tibetan custom to shout it loudly from the mountain summits, celebrating the triumph of universal good - but only in daylight.  It doesn't do to tempt fate and the darker forces after sundown.  David-Neel complied with this custom, and, as she recounts in her compelling narrative, she looked out over the moonlit glaciers and peaks and called to the six directions with the old Sanskrit mantra, "Subham astu sarvajagatam." May all beings find happiness.  In Tibetan, it is offered thus: "Ge-o! Ge-o! Ge-o!"  My Journey to Lhasa, Alexandra David-Neel, ix

Alexandra David-Neel, a French woman and extremely active explorer was set upon entering Tibet as a beggar-pilgrim and finding her way to Lhasa with her travel companion and adopted son, Aphur Yongden, a Sikkimese monk.  She studied Buddhism, learned Tibetan and her travel notes and journals provided material for books on Tibetan Buddhism and culture.  In 1914, she was presented by the monks of Sikkim with the consecrated robes of a "lamina," a female lama.  She made multiple attempts to enter Tibet and was rebuffed each time by local authorities until reaching Lhasa on her 5th attempt.

Would it be possible to follow in the footsteps of Alexandra David-Neel in her final and successful attempt to reach Lhasa?  Could, My Journey to Lhasa, be used as a travel guide?  Her 1923 four month journey on foot and horse was beyond reason to replicate, but was an overland highway route by vehicle a possibility?

The problem for this post is that I cannot find any notes or files on our overland journey in Tibet, almost like it didn't exist except in my memory or imagination (after 45 years of traveling and guiding, those two begin to intermix).  But, a couple weeks ago I opened a taped cardboard box sitting in an office corner and found stacks of slides, cassettes and photographs.  One group of slides was marked "Tibet," another "Sikkim," and another "Nepal."  Yes, the 11 boxes of slides marked "Tibet" were taken during our overland journey following In The Footsteps of Alexandra David-Neel from Kum Bum monastery near Lanzhou to Lhasa.  (If you are interested in learning more about David-Neel, I have listed several books below.)

The slide presentation is completed.  I cannot identify any of the locations for you except the beginning in Lanzhou and the end in Lhasa.  If you are able to travel this route, you might send me the location names from your visit.  You are able to see some of the landscape and monasteries that Alexandria David-Neel and Aphur Yongden traveled through during their overland journey.  I believe that we traveled on China National Highway 109 with the following route:  Lanzhou, Xigu, Minhe, Haldong, Xining, Huangyuan, Dulan, Golmud, Amdo, Nagqui, Damxung and Lhasa. The last image is a distant Sky Burial outside Lhasa. Please enjoy these images as you travel across the arid landscape to Lhasa.


Forbidden Journey - The Life of Alexandra David-Neel, Barbara and Michael Foster, 1986

My Journey to Lhasa, Alexandra David-Neel, 1927 & renewed 1955

Magic and Mystery in Tibet, Alexandra David-Neel, 1929, 1932, 1971




In The Footsteps of Alexandra David-Neel

Folkways' Image Library


YouTube
https://youtu.be/NhRTZW6MWwU
 

#62 - Kathmandu, Nepal: Boudhanath Stupa






Boudhanath Stupa Ceremony - Kathmandu, Nepal (1994)
Folkways Image Library


#61 - Tibet: Some Considerations


To the north of Bodhgaya, in India, where the Buddha Shakyamuni attained enlightenment, there was a land of high mountains rising like pillars to the sky.  Below the mountains were beautiful lakes, mandalas of turquoise.  The snow and ice were stupas of white crystals.  The ocher slopes were of gold.  In a kingdom, it was said, where autumn was colored with golden flowers and summer meadows had the scent of incense and the hue of turquoise, there would be found the true spiritual paradise, the home of the protector of the Land of the Snows.  Among these mountains, the domain of the Chenrezig (or Avalokitesvara), the Bodhisattva of Compassion, there stood a rock in the shave of the Tara, the female essence.  The prophecy maintained that one day, kings, monks and lamas would reside on this pinnacle, and that it would become a great center for learning and the transmission of the dharma.

In the eighth century, when Padma Sambhava brought Buddhism to Tibet, he came upon such a place, inhabited by demonic mountain goddesses.  Padma Sambhava tamed their wild natures, converting them to dharma protectors, with the darkest of all becoming transformed into a transcendent figure whose white body was a shimmering crystal.  The mountain itself took her form, becoming the seat of the goddess, queen of the dakinis, or sky dancers.  Her body became literally the foundation of the monastery, the first temple of which was constructed over her left breast.  A white conch shell was buried beneath her vulva, in a secret place out of which flowed all wisdom and doctrine.

Revered as Guru Rinpoche, Teacher of Teachers, Padma Sambhava, 'Lotus Born," was in time deified by the Tibetan people.  His wanderings were as prayers, his very presence a sign of the sacred, imprinted on the landscape for all time.  The wonder of his memory and the miracles of his deeds drew an endless stream of pilgrims and mystic saints to T'ing Ri and beyond, to the wild reaches of the mountain streams that drained the glaciers and ice fields of the highest and most rugged know of mountains in the world.  He was the hero of heroes, a true Bodhisattva, the wisdom hero, the realized being who had found enlightenment and yet remained in the earthly realm of samsara, of suffering and ignorance, to help all sentient beings achieve their own liberation.

To guide the people in their quest, and to ensure the eternal resonance of the wisdom doctrine, Guru Rinpoche planed along his path spiritual treasures, sacred texts and tantric teachings that might survive times of persecution, remaining magically hidden in the landscape until ready to be unveiled. Some were actual manuscripts sealed away in chortens or cached in caves.  Others were instructions passed down in mystic script and concealed within the five elements, earth, water, fire, air and ether.  Some were sequestered in meditative space alone.  To facilitate the endless flowering of the dharma, Guru Rinpoche through prophecy reached in the future, empowering a tradition of treasure seekers, tertons, spiritual adepts destined to discover over time these dharma treasures, advanced and esoteric techniques that, like flashes of the spirit, allowed the seeker to bypass the mundane liturgies, yogas, and visualizations of orthodox practice and cut through to the very essence of Buddhahood.

Howard-Bury had just covered his mouth with a kerchief when he saw the most arresting of sights:  a solitary man, well in the distance, who seemed to be stumbling repeatedly, only to regain his feet with the predictability of a metronome.  He would then stand erect for a moment, only to stumble once more.  As they came closer Howard-Bury recognized the man as a Mongolian.  He wore layers of sodden wool and both his hands and his knees were wrapped in filthy rags.  His hair was matted,his face black with grease, and his forehead shone where the grease seemed to have been rubbed away.

The man mas a pilgrim eleven months out of Lhasa, moving 650 miles toward Kathmandu, one body length at a time in ritual prostration.  From a sanding position, he would look ahead, lift his hands touched in prayer over his shoulders as high as he could reach, and then, bringing them back to his forehead, throat, and chest he would bend forward to the ground.  Touching the earth on all fours, with hands flat and squarely on his knees, he placed his forehead on the ground making five points of contact.  Thus he would purify from his being the five poisons of hatred, desire, ignorance, pride and jealousy:  that they might be replaced with the five corresponding aspects of wisdom.  Standing once more,he drew his hands again in prayer to his chest, a symbolic gesture indicating his willingness as a aspiring bodhisattva to take on the suffering of all sentient beings.  With each silent prostration he moved that much closer to his goal, which was not a place but a state of mind, not a destination but a path of salvation and liberation that is the ultimate quest of the pilgrim.
 Wade Davis, Into the Silence


Folkways Image Library

Though we do not wholly believe it yet, 
the interior life is a real life,
and the intangible dreams of people
 have a tangible effect on the world.
                                                James Baldwin



FOLKWAYS LIBRARY
Tibet Section


John F. Avedon, In Exile from the Land of the Snows, New York, 1984

Barbara M. and Michael Foster, Forbidden Journey - The Life of Alexandra David-Neel, Harper & Row, 1987

Alexandra David-Neel, My Journey to Lhasa, (Forward by His Holiness the Dali Lama), 
Beacon Press, 1983

Alexandra David-Neel, Magic and Mystery in Tibet, Dover, 1971
 
Hugh M. Richardson, Tibet and Its History, Shambhala, 1984
 
Michael Buckley and Robert Strauss, Tibet:  A Travel Survival Kit, Lonely Planet, 1986
(A Good Pocket-Size "Travel Companion")
 
National Geographic, March, 1984, Vol. 165, No. 3, "Peoples of China's Far Provinces", Page 283.
 
Lama Anagarika Govinda, The Way of the White Clouds:  A Buddhist Pilgrim in Tibet, Shambala , 1971.
 
Luree Miller, On Top of the World:  Five Women Explorers in Tibet, Mountaineers, 1984.
 
Heinrich Harrer, Seven Years in Tibet, J. P. Tarcher, Inc., 1982
 
R. A. Stein, Tibetan Civilization, Stanford University, 1972
 
Filippo de Filippi, An Account of Tibet**
 
William Montgomery McGovern, To Lhasa in Disguise, Century Co., 1924**

Peter Hopkirk, The Great Game

Peter Fleming, News from Tartary

Peter Hopkirk, Quest for Kim

Kathleen Hopkirk, Central Asia, A Traveler's Companion

Ian Baker, The Heart of the World, A Journey to the Last Secret Place

Manjursri, The Mission of George Bogle to Tibet and The Journey of Thomas Manning to Lhasa

Mildred Cable, F. Houghton, etc., The Challenge of Central Asia, World Dominion Press**

W.Y. Evans-Wentz, Tibet's Great Yogi Milarepa

Jamang Norbu, The Mandala of Sherlock Holmes

William McGovern, To Lhasa in Disguise, A Secret Expedition Through Mysterious Tibet, The Century Co. **

Giotto Dainelli, Buddhists and Glaciers of Western Tibet, KP London**

John Snelling, The Sacred Mountain, East West Publications

Edmund Chandler, The Unveiling of Lhasa, Edward Arnold Co.**

Graham Coleman, Handbook of Tibetan Culture, Shambhala

David Snellgrove & Hugh Richardson, A Cultural History of Tibet, Shambhala

Robert Byron, First Russia Then Tibet, Macmillan & Co., 1933


Melvyn Goldstein, William Siebenschuh, Tashi Tsering, The Struggle for Modern Tibet - The Autobiography of Tashi Tsering, M.E. Sharpe


 Note:  Other title suggestions if you are interested.

** Hard To Find