#44 - Nepal: Rolwaling Trek - A Pictorial Overview (1984) Part II

Finding lowland porters and organizing their loads

Sirdar Pratap giving porters trek plans and answering questions

Trek day 1

Local villagers meet foreigners

#43 - Nepal: Rolwaling Trek (November 1984) Part I

We were on the trail for 28 days, passing through many villages that had seldom seen foreigners.  At this time, the Rolwaling area was not heavily trekked due to its remoteness, length and difficulty.  I had two guests who were in good physical condition, but this was their first trip to Nepal  One cannot overestimate the combined cultural impact and length of time on the trail.

The Rolwaling valley lies between the Everest and Langtang Himalayan ranges, shadowed by Gauri Shanker (23,440') on Tibet's southern border.  The region has alpine lakes, hanging valleys, glaciers and moraines, alpine pastures, waterfalls, isolated villages and a rich diversity of flora and fauna.     

We began in Charikot, after a 7 hour drive from Kathmandu.  The trek would take us through Beding (12,110') across Tamakoshi, past Tsho Rolpa, up to the lateral moraines of the Rolwaling Glacier situated below the Rolwaling icefall, up the moraine and onto Drolumbau Glacier, over Trashi Lapcha @ 18,820', (group rest day and leader climb of  Pachermo Peak (20,300'), descent to Thame (12,467')  up to Machhermo (14,663'), continuing to Gokyo (14,744') with an ascent of Gokyo Ri (17,570), descent to Dzongla (15846') then over Cho La (17, 782) to Lobuche (16,109') and on to Gorak Shep (16,865'), Everest base camp (17,598') and Kala Patar (18,192) before descending to Tengboche (12,687), Namche Bazaar (11,482') and on to Phakding (8,562'), Surke (7,513) and reaching the end of our trek at Jiri.

Our team included our Sirdar, Pratap, cook, Ram, his two assistants plus 15 low altitude porters who would be relieved when we reached Na (13,525') or the last settlement, Kharka Na, after a steep climb into the hanging valley.

One of the problems during those early trekking years was security.  Not that any of our members or staff was at any risk, but theft was a major issue.  We did not have a head porter to oversee the transition from our low altitude porters to the high altitude we hired at Kharka Na.  We knew that all equipment and supplies were included in the high altitude porter loads, but not all of our equipment and supplies were present after we crossed Trashi Lapcha.

An unexpected altitude problem occurred at camp on the Drolumbau Glacier.  Our Sirdar, Pratap, had high altitude sickness and I spent the night checking his breathing and giving him diamox and fluids.  In the morning, he could not walk and we calculated the risks of a descent vs continuing our ascent over Trashi Lapcha and reaching a lower altitude.  We divided his pack among the porters and one carried Pratap over the pass, after which he was able to stand, walk and continue the trek.  When releasing this group of porters, we had lost (they had taken) food supplies, a sleeping bag, jacket and several other items of equipment.  None of the loss jeopardized our trek at it was completed after several resupplies when food was available.

I was surprised to recently find multiple sheets of slides from the trek.  Surprised, because I didn't remember having a camera, but obviously did.  I will post some photos from the trek.  Not all the photos will indicate the location, since I cannot recall those details. 

Let me conclude by recognizing that this was the longest and most difficult trek that I guided in the Himalayas.  It was good to have completed while I was still young and in very good physical condition.

Trek Map minus Cho La to Namche Bazaar Route

      

#42 - Iceland: Hiking Parks, Peaks & Glaciers - A Pictorial Overview (September 2019) Part III

Wandering among Thermal Pools

Fjadrargljufur Hike

Fjadrargljufur Hike Canyon

Fjadrargljufur Waterfall - One of Many

#41 - Iceland: Hiking Parks, Peaks & Glaciers - A Pictorial Overview (September 2019) Part II

Móskarðshnjúkar Hike

Hike in Kerlingarfjöll
Up to Snækollur

Hike in Hveradalir

Zodiac ride on Fjallsárlón

Fjallsárlón Glacial Formations

Silgo Harbour

#40 - Iceland: Hiking Parks, Peaks & Glaciers - An Overview (September 2019) Part I

08 September

Transfer from Keflavík airport
Free Day to Explore
Hótel Barón

09 September

Móskarðshnjúkar;  (first hike)

the hike close to town and a part of mount Esja which is visible from Reykjavík

Hótel Barón

10 September

Golden circle route

Þingvellir, tectonic plates, parliament fields Geysir Gullfoss Waterfall

Hótel in Kerlingarfjöll

11 September

Hike in Kerlingarfjöll

Up to Snækollur (moraine)

Hike around Hveradalir

Hike into the gorge to the hot spring pool

Hotel in Kerlingarfjöll

12 September

Continue driving Kjölur route

Stop in Hveravellir hot springs

Glaumbær farm museum

Hótel at Varmahlíð

13 September

Hike over Siglufjarðarskarð (the pass) to pickup point for 10 minute drive to
Siglufjörður

Hótel Sigló at Siglufjörður

14 September

Hike through Héðinsfjörður where settlement farms were set, but now abandoned

Short walk in town

Hótel Sigló

15 September

Drive out of fjords to Akureyri, (north "Capitol") for lunch and visit Botanical garden

Goðafoss waterfall

Drive to Mývatn

Walk in Dimmuborgir, lava field

Fosshótel Mývatn

16 September

Short look at víti; the crater

Walk in Krafla lava field

Námaskarð mud pools

Skútustaðir pseudo craters

Walk around Hverfjall

Fosshótel Mývatn

17 September

Dettifoss and Selfoss (powerful waterfalls)

Hljóðaklettar, columnar basalt

Long drive to Egilsstaðir town

Amazing dinner at Nielsen restaurant

Hótel Valaskjálf at Egilsstaðir

18 September

Long drive day

Over Öxi pass on new road NR1

Short stop in Djúpivogur town

Eggin í Gleðivík; sculpture by Sigurður Guðmundsson on waterfront.
Lunch in Höfn í Hornafirði Glacier lagoon (Jökulsárlón á Breiðamerkursandi)
Zodiac ride on Fjallsárlón

Fosshótel Glacier Lagoon

19 September

Short drive to Skaftafell visitor centre
Hike on Skaftafellsheiði with views down on Skaftafellsjökull Svartifoss waterfall and their black columns
Walk around the moraine of Svínafellsjökull

Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon

20 September

Drive pass to Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Walk down the gorge Fjaðrárgljúfur

Hike up to Hjörleifshöfði (where the farm used to be)
lunch in the town Vík
Stop at Reynisfjara black beach, then drive up to Dyrhólaey

Hótel Skógafoss

21 September

Hike up trail at Fimmvörðuháls pass for Multiple Waterfalls (first one Skógafoss Gljúfrabúi waterfall “the hidden one”)

Walk behind Seljalandsfoss and over toUrriðafoss

Hótel Hekla

22 September

Hike from Hveragerði town up to warm river in Reykjadalur

Long drive to Borgarfjörður

Deildartunguhver hot spring

Hótel Reykholt

23 September

Hraunfossar

Barnafossar

Borgarnes settlement center

Settlement

Egils saga

Hike to Eldborg crater

Good view to Snæfellsjökull

Hótel Arnarstapi

24 September

Hike from Arnarstapi hótel to near Hellnar
Short stop at Þúfubjarg cliffs
Descend to Vatnshellir cave
Short stop at  Djúpalón beach

Long drive to Reykjavík
Farewell Dinner at Kolabrautin in Harpa concert hall

Fosshotel Barón

25 September
Free Day in Reykjavik
Fosshotel Barón

26 September
Depart for Home

DINNERS

Restaurant	Date	Meal type	Meal
Skólabrú	09/09/2019	Starter	3 couse menu - Four Choice Exclusive
		Main	"
		Dessert	"
Kerlingarfjöll	10/09/2019	Starter
		Main	Salmon
		Dessert	Coffee & cake
Kerlingarfjöll	11/09/2019	Starter
		Main	Ham with caramelized potatoes. ?
		Dessert	Coffee & cake
Hotel Varmahlíð	12/09/2019	Starter	Shrimps with sesame and mango salsa
		Main	Lamb schnitzel served with mushroom sauce, baked vegetables and potatoes
		Dessert	Ice cream with chocolate sauce and fruits.
Sigló Hótel	13/09/2019	Starter	MENU 2: Creamy Seafood soup with fresh seafood from the market. Topped with whipped cream and fresh herbs
		Main	Grilled Lamb covered in herbs, small potatoes fried in butter. Baked root vegetables. Wild mushroom sause
		Dessert	Chocolate covered chocolate cake, topped with cream and jammed berries.
Sigló Hótel	14/09/2019	Starter	MENU 3: Tomato rosmary soup with herb oil and “crutons”.
		Main	Panfried lightly salted fillet of cod with smashed potatoes, fresh salad and lemon buttersauce.
		Dessert	“Panna cotta” with fruits marinated in mint syrup
Fosshotel Mývatn	15/09/2019	Starter	MENU 1: Lobster soup and garlic bread
		Main	Lamb filet ‑with potatoes and garlic juice
		Dessert	Salt caramel mousse ‑ith ‑hipped cream and Icelandic lava chocolate
Fosshotel Mývatn	16/09/2019	Starter	MENU3: Smoked file of sheep ‑with beetroot salad
		Main	Fried Arctic Char ‑with small potatoes and hollandaise sauce
		Dessert	Skyr and Icelandic lava chocolate
Nielsen Restaurant	17/09/2019	Starter	Reindeer tartar, egg yolks, mushrooms, reindeer moss
		Main	Chicken leg, barley, kale, garlic
		Dessert	Raspberry sorbet, tomatoes, basil
Fosshotel GL	18/09/2019	Starter	Coffee and vanilla cured salmon with rye bread, dill and black caviar
		Main	Cod with onion, potatoes and béchamel sause
		Dessert	Carrot cake baked white chocolate and sorbet
Fosshotel GL	19/09/2019	Starter	Smooth and dreamy celery root soup with truffles and croutons
		Main	Grilled lamb rump steak and lamb shank, parsnip, red beets and bérnaiser sauce
		Dessert	skyr, blueberries and vreem
Hotel Skógafoss	20/09/2019	Starter	Broccoli and cauliflower soup
		Main	Pork ribs in our „ pitch black bbq“ potato and coleslaw
		Dessert	Chokolate cake with whipped creem
Fosshotel Hekla	21/09/2019	Starter	MENU 3: Cured goose with salad and blueberrysauce
		Main	Fish of the day served with celery and potato mash and whitevinesauce
		Dessert	Skyr créme Brulée
Fosshotel Reykholt	22/09/2019	Starter	MENU 3: Cured beef from Signyjarstaðir farm ‑ith marinated vegetables
		Main	Grilled chicken breast served ‑ith carrot purée and caramelized carrot
		Dessert	Tiramisu
Arnarstapi Center	23/09/2019	Starter	Dinner Buffet
		Main	"
		Dessert	"
Kolabrautin	24/09/2019	Starter	Flamed Carpaccio of langoustines & ceviche with Icelandic roe sauce, Beurre noisette & radish salat,
		Main	Duck breast with fermented cabbage, beetroots, puree of rhubarb & plums, duck liver crumble and mirin duck jus
		Dessert	White chocolate “skyr” with raspberries, white chocolate skyr cream, hazelnut crumple

  

FAREWELL DINNER

CLOSING REMARKS

I have been working on a Saga rhyme,

But, sorry to say, it was not finished on time.

It will be available, in the future, on my Iceland blog,

Which will require that online you must log.

Ahhh, you are wondering, what did he write,

Well, okay then, the opening line, I will recite.

“Yon Jon was never a yawn.”

For those whose English is not second nature,

I will, myself, be your translator.

“Yon Jon was never a yawn.”

Yon, that person over there, Jon, was never boring.

We would like to thank, yon Jon, for hidden people, fairies and elves,

The geology of glaciers, volcanoes, lifts and alluvial shelves.

Now, please join me in giving Jon a round of applause,

Which I know he appreciates……..but would also like dollas.

This envelope I have carefully placed some bills in,

For Jon, plus his three ladies who at home have been chill ‘in.

David Christopher